People are often surprised when I tell them that Jews have lived in Morocco for more than two thousand years. Long before the cities we visit today were built, there were Jewish families here. They lived in the big towns, in small villages high in the Atlas and in the oases on the edge of the desert. They shared the same markets, the same music and many of the same dishes with their Muslim neighbors. Showing this history to travelers, and sometimes helping someone find the street where their grandmother grew up, is the part of my job I love most.
What is a mellah?
A mellah is the old Jewish quarter of a Moroccan town. Many were built right next to the royal palace, because the sultan protected the community. Most Jewish families left during the last century, but the mellahs are still there: the narrow streets, the balconies, the old synagogues. On their own, they can look like any other neighborhood. When you know the stories behind the doors, they come alive again.
Casablanca: where the community still lives
Casablanca has the largest Jewish community left in Morocco, so it is a good place to start. I like to begin at the Museum of Moroccan Judaism, which is often called the only Jewish museum in the Arab world. Inside you will find Torah scrolls, wedding dresses, jewelry and old family photographs. The city also has working synagogues, such as Beth-El, which we can visit when it is open.
Fez: one of the oldest mellahs
The mellah of Fez is one of the oldest in the country. We visit the Ibn Danan Synagogue, which has been carefully restored, and the Jewish cemetery, where the white tombs stretch down the hill. As we walk, I tell you about the rabbis, traders and craftsmen who lived here. If you have half a day more, Sefrou is a short drive away. It was once home to a large Jewish community, and very few visitors go there.
Marrakech: the Mellah and Lazama Synagogue
In Marrakech, the Mellah is just next to the Bahia Palace. The Lazama Synagogue has a quiet courtyard where it is easy to forget the noise of the city. Not far away is the Miâara cemetery, one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in Morocco. Together they tell you a lot about the city that most tourists never see.
Essaouira: by the ocean
In the 1800s, Essaouira was called Mogador, and its Jewish merchants did much of the trade between Morocco and Europe. Today you can visit Bayt Dakira, a "house of memory" about Jews and Muslims living side by side, the Haim Pinto Synagogue and the old mellah, a few steps from the sea walls.
Looking for your family roots
Many of my guests have a grandparent who was born in Fez, Meknes, Marrakech or a little village in the mountains. If you want to follow in their footsteps, a bit of homework before the trip helps a lot:
- Write down the family names, with every spelling you have seen, and the names of towns or villages.
- Look for old photos, letters, birth or marriage papers, and any address, even an incomplete one.
- Ask the older people in your family what they remember. A synagogue, a street, a school or a neighbor's name can be enough to point us in the right direction.
- Send me everything before you come, so I can build the route around the places that matter to you.
I will be honest: we do not always find the exact house. But standing in the street where your family once lived is something people rarely forget, and we will take all the time you need there.
Good to know
- Synagogues and museums have their own opening hours, and most are closed on Shabbat and Jewish holidays.
- In the bigger cities, kosher meals and attending a Shabbat service can often be arranged if you tell me in advance.
- Please dress modestly when we visit religious sites.
Whether Jewish heritage is the reason for your whole trip or just one day of it, I would be happy to show you this side of Morocco. Tell me what you know about your family, even if it is only a small detail, and we will plan the journey from there.
